The squabble between India and Pakistan over the patent of Kashmir Pashmina has finally gone in to the kitty of India. The Geographical Indication (GI) registry in Chennai has awarded the GI status to Kashmir Pashmina and Kanni shawl in favour of Srinagar based artisan body Tahafuz after setting aside the objections made by Pakistan's Rawalpindi Chamber of Commerce and Industry on the grounds that Pashmina shawls are also woven in Pakistan's Gilgit Baltistan region as well. The trade body in its plea had argued that India alone cannot claim the Pashmina trademark in the international market.

However, the GI status for two Kashmiri products has come after registry has got convinced of their Kashmiri origin and the immensely popular traditional handlooms and handmade process involved into their making.

From now onwards Kashmiri Pashmina and Kanni shawls will now have their own distinctive logos on labels that can differentiate them from the fakes selling in its name in the market. The Kashmiri Pashmina and Kanni GI would be registered in Clauses 23 (yarns and thread for textile use) and 24 (textiles and textiles goods, not included in the category of bed, table covers and clothing).

Pashmina is a woollen cloth made from hairs of fleece of the Himalayan mountain goat, Capra  Haircus often referred to as the "Pashmina goat"and Kanni shawls are made of Pashmina woven on wooden spokes called tujis in local parlance.

The efforts to get patent for Kashmir Pashmina was spearheaded by Craft Development Institute, through a society of artisans involved in the making of diverse Kashmiri handicrafts. Similar initiatives were made by Kashmir Handmade Pashmina Promotion Trust (KHPPT) and Wildlife Trust of India (WTI).

Initially there was some confrontation between the two groups fighting for the same cause, however the matter was resolved by the central government's intervention and an agreement was reached between KHPPT and Tahafuz. As per the agreement signed among the four parties, all KHPPT members will become members of Tahafuz to look after intellectual property rights and issues related to Kashmir Pashmina.

The KHPPT is a body of former shahtoosh and pashmina workers, which came into existence at the behest of WTI and International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) to promote traditional Kashmir handmade Pashmina.

CDI was established in Srinagar in 2003 as part of the Prime Minister's development package for the state to promote arts and craft in the region. It receives support from the textiles ministry and Jammu and Kashmir's Directorate of Handicrafts.

Granting of GI status to Kashmir Pashmina and Kanni shawls is expected to empower the artisans involved in the trade and raise their standard. The news regarding GI status has been received with eagerness by the artisans.

"This is an achievement for Kashmiri artisans in real sense. The GI status has given genuineness to our products. Now machine made products from outside can't be sold under the name of Kashmir Pashmina. Earlier there was no label to differentiate between the two.

Now our products will bear a definite logo.  Now we can command the prices. Even buyers too won't get confused in the grey matter that otherwise was flooded with fakes from Amritsar. This would automatically raise our standard and earn us the appreciation," said Ali Mohammed Najar . Najar is president of Tahafuz.

Since markets were usually flooded with machine made cheap products and fakes, the original Kashmir Pashmina shawls were less in demand. The imitation had badly affected the shawl weavers whose earnings were often getting reduced. Contrary to the high prices that Pashmina shawls usually fetch, it has been found that earnings of a weaver or spinner do not go beyond Rs 75 a day. 

According to Tahafuz only 50,000 pieces of Kashmir Pashmina shawls are weaved per year in Kashmir.

While a plain Pashmina shawl cost can cost Rs 5000, an embroidered Pashmina shawl can cost Rs 1 lakh, a Jammavar shawl which takes months to make can cost up to Rs 3 to Rs 5 lakh.

The GI status brings the Kashmiri products in the same league as Scotch, Darjeeling Tea, Alphanso Mango, EI leather , Alleppy Green Cardamom  and Champagne. Now the implementation of tag is a big challenge for the officials as well as government.

"Now we are in the process to work out a mechanism wherein we are going to look into how to implement this certification mechanism. It is an unorganised industry — spread over large areas comprising traders and weavers. We have to find a method which is both practical and simple," said Muhammad Shariq Farooqi, director, Crafts Development Institute.

The application for getting GI for Kashmir Pashmina, Kani shawls and Sozni - a fine needle embroidery dating back to the 17th century was submitted by Tahafuz in March 2006.

"I can not comment on why Pakistan's objections have been rejected. As far as I understand Pakistan has not filed the objection within the stipulated time. Our claim has been found genuine after an expert team visited valley to cross check it," Farooqi says.

With GI status conferred to Kashmir, now no one in the world can sell their products in the name of Kashmir Pashmina. So Pakistan has to sell its Pashmina products in the name other than Kashmir Pashmina.

Tahafuz has also applied for GI status for 10 more products, including papier mache, walnut wood carvings, Kashmiri silk carpets, Amblikar shawls, Namda or Kashmiri rugs, Katamband (wood ceilings) and Pinjrakari (latticed wood carvings).

"Now we look forward for GI to Sozani after that many more patents will follow soon," satisfied Najar informs.